Pages

Jan 9, 2019

1st: How to make Tsukuri obi (instant Nagoya obi). Preparation

後日、日本語版も掲載予定!

Hi !😀
Don't you have a Nagoya obi which is too short to wear ?
Or, don't you think, "I wanna try kimono. But so difficult to wear! Particularly, an obi !!😢''

Yes! An obi plays an important role on the kimono style, but many people have some trouble with wearing it.
Particularly, old ones (e.g. your grandmother's one and/or ones sold at flea markets).  

In fact, I had also trouble with an old obi, which my grandmother made when she was young.
The problem is that the length between the Otaiko pattern (back) and the Dou pattern (torso) was too short. So when I wore it in usual, both patterns show like case(1) or case(2) (See below).
The case both patterns show properly is best!

Two cases I wear my troublesome obi.

Today I tell you how to make a Tskuri obi with a Nagoya obi.
(If you ask the professionals to make it, it costs more than ¥10,000!😲)
It helps you to wear a kimono more quickly and properly.

Preparation

①You need to prepare these tools. Many of them already you have, I think.


<The necessities>

One Nagoya obi
If  you do not have it yet, you can buy at some webshops.
for example, shinei.
Most kimono and Obi are used. So be careful of the damage.
You should choose the obi whose condition is “Very good” or “Excellent” .
  


You need to confirm which type the obi belongs to, a continuous pattern or not.
The difficulty is a bit different between them (the former is easier).
This time I chose an obi with the latter pattern (not continuous. we call it an Otaiko type)



(From the left side)

1. A handsewing needle (e.g. for cotton thread)

2. Cotton thread (I recommend you this. A fine thread is not good.)

That is because the textile of an old obi is mostly thick. You have to sew and fix tightly!!

3. A scissor to cut textile (dressmaker's scissor)
(4. A scissor for cutting thread) It's OK, you cannot prepare this.

5. A few clothes pins  It' useful  if you have.

6. A tape measure or ruler

7. Koshihimo (120-140cm)
If you don't have, please make by myself. When you want to know how to make it, please give me a comment.
 Two thin and strong ribbons are also OK (The width is 3-4cm. The length is at shortest about 60cm).
 If it is too thick, it cannot tie in a bow! 



I recommend you to use Koshimo being the same color as the obi.
📏1cm = about 0.39inch   1inch = about 2.54cm 


8. Tailor's choke (if you need) 





💡If you are not good at sewing, a glue for crafts helps you to make Tsukuri obi fast😁 

But be careful. I don't recommend it when the textile is very thin. Or, the textile has large meshes (for the middle of the summer).  

💡A thimble is useful, too! Because I didn't have it, it took me time and effort to finish sewing.


②You need to examine and decide where you cut.

Structure of a Nagoya obi

First, you decide where you cut away from the edge of Tare (called Taresaki).

When Tare is 100cm long, it's enough.



If your obi belongs to the Otaiko type, cutting line is about 30cm away from the center of the pattern (star, See the picture).

It is said that it's OK to cut Tare along bottom line of the triangle when an obi has a continuous pattern. Try it!




Secondly you confirm how long you need to roll the obi around yourself.

The part is named Dou (See below). 

⚠You have to roll it around your torso doubly! Be careful of the position of the Dou pattern.



If Dou is too short, you need to add another fabric to the edge of it. A strong fabric is good.



Finally, you confirm the cutting line of Te. Te is about 40cm in length from the edge (Tesaki).

If Dou is too short, you can shorten Tare. But at shortest 35cm.



After you draw lines, CUT! CUT!CUT! Don't hegitate!😁😁😁😁
Let's cut the obi 30cm away from the center of the Otaiko pattern.

That's all for today. Thanks for reading!! 
Any question, welcome.

Next time ⇒ 2st: How to make Tsukuri obi (instant Nagoya obi)
If you don't know "Honguke", please read this.




⚠Please don't use photos and pictures on my blog without permission !!!



















No comments:

Post a Comment